Week 11 began just outside Kraków, where Lennard worked a full Monday from the camper while Anne caught up on laundry and tidied Casa Mariposa. Later that day we moved into Camping Clepardia, close to the city. The simple joy of proper washing machines felt like luxury. That evening came a surprise: a message on Instagram with a photo of our camper. A Dutch couple had spotted us on the site. Soon we were chatting in our native tongue and sharing tips. As tradition demanded, the night ended with a game of badminton on the camping lawn.

The following day we parked near the centre and wandered Kraków’s historic heart. The medieval market square, the narrow streets, the vibrant buzz – it all felt alive. In the evening we discovered Kazimierz, the Jewish quarter. Smalec with bread, a bright pink beetroot soup, and soup served inside a loaf filled our table. Anne especially loved the pink soup. Later, with live klezmer music echoing through a small bar, the city felt both melancholic and full of energy.

Kraków’s cobblestones and shadows

On Wednesday we visited more sombre sites: the empty chairs on Ghetto Heroes Square, symbolising the Jews forced into the Kraków ghetto; fragments of the ghetto wall, silent witnesses of loss; and Schindler’s enamel factory, now a museum showing life under Nazi occupation and the story of Oskar Schindler, who saved hundreds by employing them. These places left us quiet and reflective.

Before heading south we allowed ourselves one guilty pleasure: Popeyes chicken, a chain Anne had discovered on TikTok. Crispy, spicy and addictively good – sadly not found everywhere in Europe. With happy bellies, we crossed into Slovakia in the dark, driving high into the mountains. Outside the camper the stars shone brilliantly in the clear, cold night sky.

Hot springs and cold repairs

Thursday began with work for Lennard and bike maintenance for Anne. New saddles went on easily, but the patched tyre still went flat. Frustrating. By afternoon we left the tools behind and walked to the Oravice thermal baths near Tvrdošín. Just two outdoor pools, steaming at 38°C, tucked beneath a ski resort. Not refreshing, but soothing, and for us the rare gift of hot showers afterwards.

Friday brought our first Slovak hike, a 10 km trail through wild forest. Signs warned of brown bears, reminding us how untamed this land is. We met none, but the wild raspberries and blackberries felt reward enough. The trail ended with views of the High Tatras, jagged peaks stretching skyward. That night we camped at the edge of Slovenský raj, the Slovak Paradise, made a fire and again lost ourselves in the star-filled sky.

Saturday was for Suchá Belá. This gorge trail is famous for its wooden and metal ladders leading up waterfalls and cliffs. We set off early, knowing the heat would come. Climbing rung after rung, pulling ourselves over rocks, hearts racing, it was both exhausting and exhilarating. The adrenaline was unlike any other hike we’ve done. Anne finished with a huge blister, and both of us felt sore muscles the days after, but the experience was unforgettable.

We ended the week with perhaps the most beautiful spot so far: a quiet pitch facing the High Tatras. From our chairs we watched the sun fade over the peaks, barbecued simple food, and later lay back to count the stars.

Suchá Belá – ladders and blisters

Casa Mariposa Meter – Week 11

🌟 Highlight
The Suchá Belá gorge hike – thrilling ladders, wild nature, and a true sense of adventure.

😬 Low point
The stubborn bicycle tyre that refused to hold air despite Anne’s best efforts.

🏕 Best overnight spot
Our pitch with uninterrupted views of the High Tatras.

🔥 Chaosmeter
5/10, minor frustrations like the bike repair, balanced by calm evenings.

📊 Total score
8/10, a week of contrasts – heavy history in Kraków, soothing hot springs, and the wild joy of the mountains.

See you on the road!
– Anne & Lennard 🦋